Ardnamurchan and beyond…

It’s been a few years since we stayed at Gorteneorn Bothy, by the edge of Kentra Bay on the Ardnamurchan Penisula, so it was good to return for a couple of weeks, although receiving this message from the owner the night before we set off was disappointing.

It’s a long drive from Sherburn, but worth it for the peace and tranquility of one of our favourite areas of the UK.

Ralf found himself on Alison’s lap whilst we crossed Loch Linnhe on the Corran Ferry – he wasn’t keen and we put him back in his cage for the last bit of the journey.

We’d only been here a few hours when we had our first visitors to the garden – a couple of young Red Deer staring in through the rear window of the lounge.

Saturday evening was glorious – giving us an opportunity to walk up beside the Bay, into the forest, where there’s extensive logging going on at the moment.

Monday involved a visit to Tioram Castle – always a firm favourite for Ralf.

Tuesday’s jaunt was to the tiny village of Ardtoe and its fantastic beaches. There’s a great parking spot, where Campervans and small motorhomes can stay overnight for £5 – an absolute bargain.

We saw two White Tailed Sea Eagles flying over the bay whilst we were at Ardtoe – magnificent birds, which are huge compared to the crows which were mobbing them.

On Wednesday we drove a bit further, to Salen for provisions, then onwards to Camas nan Geall (https://www.wildardnamurchan.com/history/camas-nan-geall).

We’ve parked in the car park overlooking the beach many times, but never ventured down the steep farm track to sea level before. There’s lots of history here, including an abandoned, derelict village and ancient burial sites. There’s also a beach which made Ralf happy.

The walk back to the car was interesting and it’s just possible that I had to have a sit down a couple of times before I made it to the top.

We stopped off at a picnic spot beside Loch Sunart on the way back, although I was starting to get symptoms of the flu-like condition that Alison had endured for a few days. We were still able to sit in the sun back at the Bothy, before a beautiful walk for Ralf beside the Bay.

I really didn’t feel well on Thursday – I didn’t leave the Bothy at all and generally felt sorry for myself. Could it be man-flu?

By Friday I felt a bit better, so we set off for Mallaig. It’s a beautiful drive along the side of Lochs Moidart and Ailort and one we always enjoy. The plan was to have fish and chips, but the Jacobite steam train had just arrived and deposited a lot of tourists into the town, all with seemingly the same idea. We managed to get a table in the Crab and Creel Restaurant, where Alison enjoyed half a Lobster and I ate my own weight in Monkfish.

We stopped off at a beach near Arisaig on the way back, to let Ralf stretch his legs and I was rewarded with a flock of Whimbrel passing through – the photo’s not good, but I’m including it as a record.

Saturday was a day for two different activities in the afternoon. I had an appointment with Sky Sports on my iPad, in the forlorn hope that the Boro could scrape three points off Coventry City and secure a spot in the playoffs. Alas, it wasn’t to be.

Whilst I stayed home, Alison and Ralf walked the 2 miles through the woodland to The Singing Sands – a place we both love, although the decimation by the loggers has made the walk less attractive than it used to be. To be fair, the trees are a commercial crop and were never going to stand forever – I’m sure they’ll be replanted in good time.

In the evening, we were booked into the Mingarry Park Hotel for dinner at 7pm. We’ve eaten there before and it seems like the “award winning” menu has never changed. Alison had her favourite Cullen Skink, followed by Haddock and Chips, whilst I opted for Scallops and Black Pudding, with Venison Steak to follow.

We chilled on Sunday and did some cooking, before Jodie and Issy met me at the gate to the track, to follow us up to the Bothy. The plan was that they’d leave their car and walk to Singing Sands, to wild camp next to the beach – what an adventure for a 10 year old to have with her Mum. I love them both for their adventurous spirit.

We met up again with J, S & I for a late brunch at Cafe Tioram in Acharacle on Monday, before they headed back to Roybridge. That was one tired little girl.

When we were last on Ardnamurchan we stayed near Resipole, and a fresh fish van from Fort William called at Steven Marshall’s property – we bought some fresh scallops and I made a lovely evening meal. I’d read that the same van stopped just down the road from here in Ardtoe, between 1.30 and 2.30 on Tuesday, so we drove down and waited.

Unfortunately it didn’t turn up, which was disappointing, but at least it means I’m let off the hook for cooking tonight. It also allowed us to have another walk with Ralf on the small beaches and up on to the heather covered headland.

There aren’t many places we haven’t visited over the past 10 years on Ardnamurchan, but there is one beach we’ve missed, partly because it’s a bit of a trek to get there. On Wednesday we decided to finally make the effort.

Smirisary village was once deserted but now has a few well kept cottages, but no roads to service them. It would be a romantic thought to live there, but I imagine it’s tough in the winter. In any event, the village wasn’t our main destination, as beyond, on a hilly and often boggy track, there are several beautiful secluded beaches with bright white sand and, on the day we visited, azure blue seas, reminiscent of our trips to the Outer Hebrides.

On the way we stopped at the Glenuig Community store for bread, batteries and superglue. The CO Monitor in the Bothy started bleeping last night, much to Ralf’s dismay. It wasn’t a carbon monoxide alert but simply a sign that the three batteries were running out of power. I messaged the owner and said I’d replace them for her. The superglue was to repair the scissors which had fallen apart. See? – my DIY skills know no boundaries.

We parked at the Glenuig Inn for a swift pint, before driving back to the Bothy – just what we needed.

There was a Craft and Produce sale on in the Village Hall on Thursday, so we popped in for a look. It was full of stalls and we picked up a few things as memories, plus some banana and peanut butter dog treats, for which Ralf was very grateful.

Next stop was the Smokehouse in Glenuig for snacks to eat later in the evening, then onward to the Glenuig Inn for lunch and a pint.

We stopped on the way back at one of Ralf’s favourite places – the Prince’s Walk.

Friday was the day to pack up and leave Ardnamurchan, after two fantastic weeks. We drove to catch the Corran Ferry, then headed south through Glencoe in all its glory.

As we often do, we parked up next to Loch Lomond for comfort breaks all round, and to let Ralf stretch his legs.

Back on the road again and another familiar stopping point at Annandale, where Alison sated her occasional habit under the Golden Arches. I may also have purchased a Cornish pasty.

We’d booked a cottage near Appleby in Cumbria for a few days and it was as cute as a button. Herdie’s Hideaway is a lovely property and we could see why it had all 5-star reviews.

We’d planned on chilling on Friday night, but it was a glorious evening and the pub was a five minute walk away across fields, so it would have been rude not to go.

We got off to a bad start, because the woman in the photo had three Labradors, who decided to go for Ralf as we walked by, to a free table. Apparently, it was our fault for walking past her table and surprising her dogs – I had a word with her on my way into the bar for our drinks, to let her know of an alternative reality, but she continued to chunner on to her husband, when he came back from the bar. Fortunately they left shortly afterwards – takes all sorts doesn’t it?

We slept well in our first night at Herdie Hideaway and woke to bright blue skies and wall to wall sunshine.

After breakfast, a quick look in the list of walks provided and we decided to walk in a circular route down to, and alongside, the beautiful River Eden and back through Sandford to our base.

We spent the day in Kirkby Stephen, a town we used to visit quite often when we had the Static van in Sedbergh. Alison commented that it seems to be a bit more buoyant these days, which is a pleasant change for most small rural towns. Ralf approved as he had a doggy ice cream.

We rounded the day off by heading back across the fields to the local pub. Alison had booked us a table when we visited last night, which is just as well as it was very busy, with quite a lot of motorsports enthusiasts – we’d seen quite a few rally type cars passing through KS on the afternoon, so I assume they were connected.

There’s a heritage railway line between the Hideaway and the A66 and I managed to capture it running on Sunday. I suspect it doesn’t go very far because it wasn’t long before it returned.

The weather has been staggeringly good whilst we’ve been here, as evidenced by the beautiful sky in the video.

I’d booked us into the Stag Inn in Dufton for lunch, a place we last visited after an abortive attempt to walk to High Cup Nick, with our friend, Simon. The food was as fantastic then, as it was on Sunday.

Back at Herdie Hideaway, I met Gemma, the owner, feeding lambs with her husband. If you’re reading this, Gem, I hope you realise how lucky you are to live in such a spectacular place.

We left Cumbria around 9.30am on Monday, but didn’t head straight home, instead driving to Saltburn on the north east coast – a place where I spent quite a bit of my youth.

After a wander around the town we headed to the beach, where Alison took Ralf for yet another walk.

We also ticked an item off her bucket list, by going for lunch in the Seaview Restaurant. She’s been wanting to go for ages, but last time we were in town they were closed for refurbishment.

The food was excellent and the view spectacular.

 

After a drive along the coast, through Sandsend and Whitby, we stopped in Forge Valley Woods for Ralf’s last walk before home.

All in all, we’ve had just over two weeks of a fabulous time. Our next break will be in June, to the Static Van in Shropshire, but before that, there’s grass to cut, washing to be done and this Blog to publish.

Enjoy the photos and PLEASE leave me a comment.